Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
